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反包毛巾机生产针织天鹅绒的常见规格及注意事项
[ 发布时间:2015-03-24 10:00:26  访问量:1226  字体: ]

1.  天鹅绒名称之解读

The origin of the Name “Velour”

 

天鹅绒,英文名knitted velour 据说在俄文中有柔软,温柔的意思

Knitted velour as heard in russian means soft and gentle.

天鹅绒绝大部分的是用反包毛圈针织大圆机织的.梭织有一种丝绒产品亦称之为天鹅绒,需要加以区分。

Most of the Knitted velour was produced by Reverse terry Circular Knitting Machine. Knitted velour is easily to be confused with woven velvet.

2。棉天鹅绒和CVC天鹅绒之生产简介

Pure Cotton Velour and CVC(cotton/poly) velour

1.棉天鹅绒常见为毛圈纱32S+地纱涤丝DTY100D.这个组合最为常见.也有做比较轻的克重

The common composition for cotton velour is terry yarn 32s cotton with ground yarn DTY 100D.

或特殊要求的毛圈用35S,38S,地纱用75D,150D等.

Sometimes, we saw light weight cotton velour using finer 35s and 38s for terry yarn and 75D/150D dty as ground yarn.

常见CVC天鹅绒规格:32S+100DCVC天鹅绒210---275G/M2

CVC velour composition   32S+100D  Density: 210~275gsm

           40S+75D36FCVC天鹅绒185-210G/M2

                       40s+75D 36F CVC velour 185~210gsm

常见密丝绒钻石绒规格:75DFDY+100D36F  165-190G/M2

Fine Crushed velour : 75D FDY+100D 36F  165~190gsm

常见氨纶密丝绒金钻绒规格:75DFDY+100D+30D 220-290G/M2

Fine crushed velour with spandex 75D FDY+100D+30D 220~290gsm

一般市场上做天鹅绒的棉纱多为普纱或高配棉的普纱.偶然见过昆山某企业用精梳纱做的天鹅绒非常漂亮,但是成本相对高很多了.

Most market knitted velour using carded cotton yarn, a combed cotton yarn will produce a fancy velour fabric but also increase the cost a lot.

    解读一些常见的称谓误区。

Common misunderstanding about velour fabric.

    全棉天鹅绒-----需要明白是绒面全棉的(地纱是化纤,多为涤纶)

Pure cotton velour--- Pls note only terry loop is made of 100% cotton yarn, the ground yarn is 100% polyester.

    CVC80/20天鹅绒-----32S+100D坯布刚刚下机之半成品是为CVC80/20左右,然经过染整之最终成品仅有CVC68/32----CVC72/28左右。因在中间的剪毛过程中均为棉质毛圈被剪损。

CVC 80/20 velour---32S+100D knitted velour, the grey fabric is CVC 80/20 with no problem. However, under proper dyeing& finishing, the finished fabric is between CVC 68/32 to CVC 72/28. Because all the yarn lost is the cotton terry loop was sheared during the producing or knitted velour.

    每次和一些新手解释这些,都要花很多口舌。[原创]图解针织面料知识之------针织天鹅绒

2.一般的毛圈高度在2.5MM-3.0MM之间.毛太低,剪毛不容易剪开,损耗大,;毛太高,剪毛损

The height of the terry loop is around 2.5mm~3.0mm, shorter terry loop will be hard to be sheared, a longer terry loop will result to a higher yarn lost, also a long sheared terry loop not easy to stand up.

耗大,而且毛圈不容易直立.

3.有些公司要求毛圈纱和地丝的捻向相反,以改善纬斜.但是依3Z看来,并不是太重要,因为天鹅绒

 

的弹性和组织行态,起决定作用的是地纱,而地纱是涤纶的,很容易在定型的时候克服纬斜.而且一般反

Some knitting mills may request terry yarn and ground yarn has a different direction of twist to improve skewness. Actually, the Reverse terry knitting machine has fewer feeders, 30”x48F OR 30”x44F, which not result in serious skewness. Also the skewness is easily solved during fabric setting because the ground yarn is polyester.

包机路数较少,纬斜并不明显30"的48路和44路比较多见,26"的42路比较多见.

4.棉纱的捻度要求非常均匀,如果某几路的捻度过大或过小,容易造成该路毛圈的竖立程度异于其他.

The request of twist of cotton yarn should be even, some of the feeders has higher or smaller twist will result the terry loop in some part different with the others. Therefore, a longer or shorter terry loop will not be sheared or completely sheared.

在剪毛时候容易造成剪不到或剪不清.

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